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Monday
Mar182013

Gear I Trust

   

The picture is very busy, lots to look at.  This is the gear I use for touring and ski mountaineering.  Sometimes I bring more, sometimes less.  I omitted little things like sunglasses, lip balm, compass because there was too much to fit in the image.  I included 2 pr of skis and boots because sometimes there is rad powder and sometimes there is rad ice.

Starting on the left are K2 Darkside with Dynafit bindings, this ski is super fun, floaty, has some rocker up front so it handles wind/sun affected snow and crust easily.  It also has camber under foot and a flat tail so it is not scary on ice.  There is no metal in it so it's light.  I use the K2 skins with these, the tip/tail attachment is bomber and the grip is great, the glide however is not as good as some others but makes up for it in durability.

The other skis are my spring/summer boards.  The K2 Wayback is my go-to when things are icy or when I have to climb with the skis on my back for many hours (too steep to skin).  These skis are super light and fun to ride, they hold an edge well and have a little rocker up front.  I use the 174 length, small, turny and light.

Dynafit TLT5 are the boots I use with the waybacks, killer set-up.  The boots are really low profile and volume.  It's like wearing a plastic rock shoe.  The boots are light, have great range of motion in the cuff, are easy to ice climb in and feel suprisingly stout while skiing.  The Dynafit Titan Ultralight are the other boots in the photo (lower right).  I use these boots with the Darksides and all of my alpine skis.  Nothing but high praise for this boot, light and powerful.  I've used this boot for ski patrolling the last 2 seasons and it is holding up well with 250+ days on it.  The stock liners in both boots work just fine, I just add a custom footbed from Superfeet.

The clothing is from the Mammut Eiger Extreme collection, love it.  The Nordwand Jacket is Gore-Tex Pro Shell, the best hard shell fabric available.  It pretty much lives in the pack, unless I am guiding or skiing in a storm.  I feel shitty when I overheat so I climb in thin layers and put a shell on when there is wind or precip.  Sometimes I'll swap the Nordwand out with the Felsturm pullover (lighter, different fabric).  The pants are the Eisfeld, a soft shell with schoeller fabric.  They are stretchy and breathable, great for climbing, shed snow well, plenty of pockets, awesome pants.  I also carry the Nordwand pants in my pack in case of rain or wicked high winds.  Jackets I use to keep warm are Mammut Rime Pro (synthetic) and the Broad Peak Hoody (down), both are hooded and work well as belay jackets, compress down nicely so they don't take up much room in the pack.

The pack shown is the Mammut Nordwand, classic top loader with a full length zipper down the front so access to gear in the bottom of the pack is easy.  I also use the Mammut R.A.S. Rocker pack, it's an avalanche airbag pack that is a bit smaller, I really like the low profile design but hope I'll never need to deploy the airbag to save my life.  It's an insurance policy, not a substitute for sound judgement.  As with all of the Mammut gear, the features are too numerous to list so check their site with the link on the left of the page.  Their gear has never let me down and I am extremely grateful for their support.

The other items in the photo are small but still important.  2 sets of gloves, 1 thin pair for the skin/climb and 1 warm pair for the descent.  Goggles, I'm using the Oakley Canopy.  They are the best googles I've ever used, max peripheral vision, comfort and a great selection of lenses.  For sun and high altitude I use the Fire Iridium lens and for stormy flat light/night action the High Intensity Yellow is my choice.  Mammut Zephir Altitude is a great harness, ultra light and able to be taken off/on while wearing skis.  I also carry a couple of cordelettes, 3 spare carabiners, 2 slings, 2 ice screws (1 larger titanium screw, 1 stubby), 1 DMM revolver carabiner (built in pulley) for crevasse rescue and sometimes a snow picket.  The rope is 5 or 6 mm and 125ft.  It can be used for glacier travel but is mostly used for rappelling.  The Petzl axe and crampons round out the collection. 

I posted this info because these are some of the items that let me go into the mountains and be safe, this is gear I trust my life to.  Many people will post pics of gear they just got and talk about how stoked they are to use it, well this stuff has been used and I'm even more stoked now.  Very few pieces of gear are perfect, gear doesn't need to be perfect, just like my grammar and spelling don't need to be perfect.  But gear does need to perform well enough that we are psyched to keep using it and trusting it.  I hope you find gear that gets you so stoked you want to tell people about it.

 

Monday
Aug272012

Summer Skiing, Mt Hood, Oregon

One of the many reasons I moved to the Columbia River Gorge is year-round skiing.  Summer skiing on Mt Hood, Mt Adams, Mt Rainier is incredibly fun and varied.  Face-shot powder stashes can be found on the cold, shady north facing slopes well into July.  The dense and abundant snowpack bridge the crevasses on the glaciers and provide safe, smooth skiing until autumn.  The vertical is near Himalayan scale and summer weather is often Awesome.

Tuesday
Nov152011

Mammut Eiger Extreme

In November of last year, I went to Switzerland to be a part of the Mammut Eiger Extreme Test Event.  We were briefed on the new product line and tested the Nordwand jacket and pants on the Eiger. Because of the size of the team and the time constraints (weather), we climbed the West Ridge to the summit then traversed the summit ridge and dropped down onto the summit icefield on the North face.  It was a fun experience.  I'm the guy on the bottom right of the X.

Friday
Aug052011

K2 summit push 2011

Right now climbers are going for the summit on K2.  Wish them well.  Hopefully they will top out and all come back down smiling.  No one has summited K2 since the tragedy in 2008.  Two years ago today I skied from 8350 meters on the south side, here is a shot.

Photo courtesy of George Dijmarescu

Friday
Apr292011

Lhotse Ski Expedition 2011

Hey All,  I've had a few people ask me lately "What's up with your website, did you abandon it?"  No, Sorry.  I just feel like I don't have anything worthy of sharing.  I've been pretty mellow over the last 10 weeks because of an injury.  Now I'm getting back out free skiing and about to head up to Mount Rainier for 10+ days. Hopefully I'll be able to do something rad.  

For day to day posts, pictures and news I use Facebook and Twitter, find me on there to check out stuff that I think is cool enough to share but maybe not appropriate for this site.

I try to only post the things that I find to be significant from a broad interest or historic perspective.  Recently the climbing/ski community has been rocked by the passing of several highly experienced athletes.  Fellow East Coaster and K2 ski company teammate Kip Garre was killed in an avalanche in the Sierras that also took the life of his girlfriend, Allison Kreutzen.  In the Bernese Alps, Swiss legend, Erhard Loretan died in a fall on his 52nd birthday.  Deepest condolences to the families and friends of all the adventurous souls who have passed in the last few months.

The spring climbing season in the Himalaya is going strong, with climbers acclimatizing on Everest and other peaks.  Swiss athlete Ueli Steck just blasted up and down Shisha's South Face in a blistering 10.5 hours.  This guy is so awesome, I'm stoked to see what he does next.  He's got permits for Cho and Everest North side. Hopefully we will see him float the Everest Super Coulior (Japanese>Horbein) to end what could be an amazing season.  American skier of the Gnar, Chris Davenport is currently on the south side of the Big E guiding a friend, perhaps he will find time to ski a line or two.  

There may be some other ski descents going on, I haven't heard of any except for the Lhotse Ski Expedition. This is a trip no doubt put together by Jamie Laidlaw.  Jamie skied from over 8000 meters on Lhotse in 20??. He's been on the route before so he knows what's up and if the conditions are remotely reasonable I think he'll send it.  With Jamie on the trip is Kris Erickson, who is a total badass as well.  Kris has skied on Cho, Shisha and G2 among many others.  These guys are a class act and I expect they will come home with mind-blowing imagery that The North Face will use in future campaigns.

This post is loaded with links, check them out, all are interesting.  Please send positive vibes to all the folks out in the hills now.  Remember, "The mountains don't care who you are" and "There is no conquering going on here, just pure fun".  I feel like someone older and wiser must have said those phrases before me, but I don't know who.  Peace